Italian Parmesan Cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano)

Informally known as the king of cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano, or Parmesan cheese with Denominazione di Origine Controllata (D.O.C.), is so valuable that trucks carrying loads of it have been hijacked at gunpoint. Parmesan is arguable the most famous and widespread of all Italian cheeses. It is a hard granular cheese, which is cooked but not pressed, commonly grated over pastas, soups, and salads. Cheeses labeled Parmesan, imitations of the traditional Parmigiano Reggiano, along with the original itself, can be found throughout most of the world.

The name, Parmigiano Reggiano, comes from two of the cheese’s main production areas, Parma and Reggio Emilia. Parmigiano is the Italian adjective for Parma. And Reggiano is the Italian adjective for Reggio Emilia. Other than these two specific areas, Parmigiano Reggiano is also produced in the vicinity of Modena, Bologna, and Mantova. All production of the D.O.C. cheese is exclusive to the two northern regions of Italy that encompass all of these areas, Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia.

The production method used to make Parmigiano Reggiano is a form of craftsmanship led by the maestro cesaro, or cheese expert. The art of Parmigiano Reggiano making continues to be passed on from generation to generation of cheese makers and farmers whose lives are devoted to this craft. They are responsible for everything from the cows’ breeding, selection and feeding in order to obtain the best quality milk, to the long and complex making and maturing processes.

At rural dairy farms milk is gathered twice a day and poured into large copper vats to sit for curdling. A little bit of whey, taken from the previous day’s production, is added to accelerate fermentation. The milk is then heated and continuously stirred using a rotella. Rennet, a natural complex of enzymes found in the stomachs of calves, is added. These enzymes coagulate the milk, causing it to separate into curds and whey, or solids and liquid. The curd is then split with a tool called a spino until it has the granular consistency deemed necessary. From here it is placed in a large linen cloth and put into a fascera, or circular wooden form, which gives it the characteristic round shape. The mass takes several days to solidify into cheese. However, this is not the final product. The cheese is placed in brine to allow for salt absorption. It is then briefly exposed to the sun before being left on large wooden shelves for the first ripening stage. After months of careful turning and dusting the cheese is transported to large warehouses to mature even more. Then, only after careful inspection can the cheese finally be labeled Parmigiano Reggiano and sold with the seal of quality approval. This same process has been repeated for centuries.

The city of Parma has proof that the cheese can be traced to the 13th and 14th centuries. Literature of the time regards Parmigiano Reggiano as the noble fruit of the milk of Parma. This noble fruit has remained the most highly prized of Italian cheeses and an essential of Italian cuisine. Eaten as a table cheese, freshly cut Parmigiano Reggiano can be accompanied by pears or other fresh fruit and a glass of good red wine, preferably from the Emilia-Romagna region. Grated Parmigiano Reggiano is added to many different dishes, enhancing their flavors and textures. Remember, it should always be added at the last moment, on the dining room table if possible, to preserve the rich, complex flavors of the cheese.